Mario Batali describes him as “a cook’s cook.” To April Bloomfield, he’s “a genius.” Anthony Bourdain calls him “my personal walking Buddha.” David Chang simply says, “he’s a rock star.”They’re talking about an unassuming, bespectacled Englishman named Fergus Henderson, who’s probably the most influential chef you’ve never heard of.
In the 19th century, hops-the aromatic flowers that give beer its bitterness-were one of New York State’s most important crops. In Ben Granger’s Sunset Park garden, they still are. Granger is a hop fanatic.
(Edible Manhattan; a slightly different version ran in Edible Brooklyn)
While it’s never been so easy to buy pedigreed produce in Manhattan, conscientious carnivores are asking: “Where’s the beef?” Not to mention pork, lamb and even poultry.
The marbled-with-morals meats they seek come with a long list of adjectives: local, grassfed, humanely raised and well-butchered. And although dozens of farmers (and would-be farmers) within a few hours’ drive of the city are enthusiastic about raising that kind of meat and selling it to New York’s burgeoning market of discerning carnivores, a formidable roadblock stands right at the intersection most of us would rather not think too hard about: Small, local farmers have a really, really hard time getting their animals killed.
Trafficking in Raw Milk
After illegal drugs, raw milk -- milk that’s unpasteurized and unhomogenized, just as it comes out of the cow -- may be the most briskly traded underground commodity in America.
A Different Kind of Eat-Local Challenge
When Jason Richelson and Amy Bennett moved to Fort Greene seven years ago, they shared their neighbors' frustration that they couldn't buy good fresh food without getting on the subway or into a car. But, say the partners,...there's a reason it's taken Fort Greene so long to get fresh fish and cut-to-order meat and cheese. Fresh food is hard.